Nirmal Purja Among Six Missing After Avalanche on Broad Peak

New Delhi, India Jul 31, 2026 ALN: Islamabad/Kathmandu, July 31: Nepal's veteran mountaineer Nirmal Purja remains among six climbers missing after an avalanche struck an expedition on Pakistan's Broad Peak. Rescuers have recovered four bodies and continue search operations despite adverse weather conditions, officials reported on Friday.

The climbers—six from Nepal, one Pakistani, one Omani, one American, and one Chinese—went missing around 9 am local time following the avalanche. This incident highlights the inherent dangers associated with high-altitude climbing, particularly during the summer climbing season in the Karakoram range, which is known for its unpredictable weather patterns and technical climbing challenges.

ACP President Major General Irfan Arshad confirmed that four bodies have been recovered during the rescue operation. He identified two of the deceased as Oman's Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy and Nepal's Pur Bahadur Gurung. The identities of the other two bodies have yet to be officially confirmed, but the ongoing recovery efforts underscore the urgency of the situation as families and communities await news of their loved ones.

In addition to Purja and Gurung, the other Nepalese climbers include Kili Pemba Sherpa, Nima Sherpa, Nawang Thindu Sherpa, and Gyalu Sherpa. The other missing climbers are Sohail Sakhi of Pakistan, Wang Zhong of China, and Mallory Geis of the United States. This diverse group reflects the international nature of high-altitude expeditions, where climbers from various countries often come together to tackle some of the world’s most formidable peaks.

Search and rescue operations are ongoing, but bad weather has severely hampered efforts, with helicopters facing operational constraints in the mountainous terrain, according to officials. The challenges of conducting rescue operations in such conditions cannot be overstated; the high altitudes, coupled with the risk of further avalanches, make it a perilous endeavor. The avalanche struck at an altitude of around 7,000 meters on Thursday, sweeping away a 10-member climbing team that had begun its summit push, as reported by the Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP).

Purja, 43, is regarded as one of the world's leading high-altitude mountaineers. A former member of Britain's Brigade of Gurkhas and the Royal Marines' elite Special Boat Service, he has set several mountaineering records since becoming a full-time climber and expedition guide. His accomplishments have not only brought him personal accolades but have also contributed to a growing interest in high-altitude climbing in Nepal and beyond.

In 2019, he made history by climbing all 14 mountains above 8,000 meters in just six months and six days under his "Project Possible" expedition. This remarkable achievement has inspired many aspiring climbers and has drawn attention to the capabilities of modern mountaineering techniques and the importance of physical fitness and mental resilience in extreme environments. In 2021, he was part of a team of 10 Nepali climbers that achieved the first successful winter ascent of K2, further solidifying his status as a pioneer in the field.

Nepal's Minister for Tourism, Culture, and Civil Aviation, Khadak Prasad Paudel, expressed concern over the incident and stated that the government is in regular contact with Pakistani authorities. "Deeply concerned by the reports of an avalanche and the loss of contact with Nirmal Purja 'Nims Dai' and fellow Nepali climbers in Pakistan," Paudel said in a social media post. "We are in regular contact with the Pakistani authorities and receiving updates on the situation. Our thoughts are with the climbers and their families. We remain hopeful for their safe return," he added. This statement reflects the broader implications of the incident, as it raises questions about the safety of climbers in the region and the need for improved safety measures during expeditions.

The ACP reported that two Pakistan Army Aviation helicopters are engaged in the search and rescue operation. The club noted that GPS coordinates received from some of the missing climbers indicated that the avalanche had swept the group nearly 1,000 meters downhill, leaving them trapped. This information is critical for rescue teams as they strategize how to navigate the treacherous terrain to locate and assist the missing climbers.

It also expressed concern that some local high-altitude porters might have been caught in the avalanche. High-altitude porters play a vital role in supporting climbing expeditions, often carrying heavy loads and assisting climbers in reaching their goals. Their safety is paramount, and the potential involvement of porters in this incident highlights the broader risks faced by all individuals involved in mountaineering expeditions.

The ACP remains in constant contact with government authorities to facilitate the rescue operation. "Every possible effort is being made to ensure that helicopter support and all available rescue resources are mobilized at the earliest opportunity, subject to weather and operational conditions," it stated. This commitment to rescue efforts underscores the urgency of the situation and the dedication of the authorities involved.

Gilgit-Baltistan Chief Minister Amjad Hussain Advocate directed all relevant departments to remain on high alert and expedite the rescue operation in coordination with the Pakistan Army. This coordinated response is essential in ensuring that all available resources are utilized effectively to locate and rescue the missing climbers.

Pakistan's summer climbing season, which runs from June to August, frequently witnesses avalanches and unpredictable weather, posing significant risks to mountaineers. The combination of high altitude, steep terrain, and rapidly changing weather conditions creates an environment where climbers must be exceptionally prepared and cautious. Broad Peak (8,051 meters), located in the Karakoram range near K2, is the world's 12th-highest mountain and is considered one of the most challenging peaks to climb. Its technical routes and the potential for sudden weather changes make it a formidable challenge even for experienced climbers, further emphasizing the risks associated with high-altitude mountaineering.