George Monbiot discusses the detrimental impact of industrial poultry farming on UK rivers and the government's complicity in facilitating this ecocide.
London, United Kingdom Jul 23, 2026 ALN: Thereâs a slightly mean question I often ask British people with an interest in the living world: can you name the environment secretary? I donât intend to show them up: itâs not them Iâm testing. I watch the brows knit, a finger go up, the mouth open and close. âItâs, you know, the one who ⊠no, they went, didnât they? That other one âŠâ Itâs been like this for seven years.
Why? Because throughout this period, weâve not had environment secretaries. Weâve had portals through which corporate lobbyists may pass. The last incumbent to represent the wider public interest (and I can scarcely bring myself to type these words) was Michael Gove. In his other roles, heâs widely remembered with loathing and disgust. Out of office, he continues to poison public life, as editor of the Spectator. But in this role, to general astonishment, he placed the public good above special interests.
Standard operating procedure, by contrast, is exemplified by the final acts of the outgoing secretary, whose name, to put you out of your misery, is Emma Reynolds. To give just one example â which could be seen as an embodiment of everything that has gone wrong here â she spent her last weeks in the post trying to remove the brakes on industrial chicken farming.
In front of a parliamentary committee this month, she railed against the planning constraints holding back yet more giant chicken factories (letâs not grace them with the name of farms). If only these obstacles were demolished, she mused, âthere is great investment out there waiting to be made ⊠I want to bring down these barriers as much as you doâ. She said she had spoken to other departments to ensure permission for new chicken factories was easier to obtain.
Neither she nor the MPs questioning her gave any hint of why these buildings have run into trouble with the planning system. In fact, there was no mention of any of the problems the factories cause: the MPsâ only apparent interest was in what the industry wanted. Whatâs the point of MPs if they simply channel corporate demands? But these factories are killing some of our most beautiful rivers. They generate far more dung than the surrounding fields can absorb. The surplus washes downhill into the nearest stream.
The only decision that counts is the planning decision. As soon as permission for a chicken unit is granted, the local tributary, and possibly the main stem of the river it drains into, is as good as dead. Itâs not even as if these factories support jobs and growth: by killing the rivers, they help to destroy local economies.
I thought weâd won this argument. But argument, it seems, is no match for economic power. Reynoldsâs loyalties appeared to lie not with the ecosystems she was meant to protect, but with the lobbyists threatening them. Perhaps this shouldnât be surprising: before she joined Keir Starmerâs government, she worked as a lobbyist, representing the financial sector.
Disturbingly, it was the new environment secretary, Angela Eagle, while working as Reynoldsâs deputy, who sought to drive through the âplanning reformsâ the poultry industry was demanding, telling chicken lobbyists âplanning should enable ambition, not stifle itâ. Will she now take Burnhamâs âcircuit breakerâ promise seriously, and junk this appeasement of one of our most destructive industries?
At a recent farming festival, Reynolds claimed that boosting the poultry sector would enhance our food security. I donât know how many times we need to point this out, but isnât it bleeding obvious that it has the opposite effect? The feed sustaining chickens in these factories must be either imported or grown on land that could otherwise directly feed people. There could be more soya in chicken than in tofu: one report estimates that it takes 109g of soya to produce 100g of chicken breast. Yet this is just one of several components of their diet.
The chicken business in the UK is also controlled by a handful of giant companies: another security red light. If food security were the objective, the government would encourage us to eat fewer chickens and other animals, and more plants. But in parliament, Reynolds also proudly announced that she was disregarding the targets set by the governmentâs Climate Change Committee to reduce livestock numbers. I find myself asking, over and again: âAre they trying to harm this country?â
To advance their dismal agenda, Reynolds and Eagle set up something called the Farming and Food Partnership Board. Its aim is to encourage âcloser collaboration between farming, industry and governmentâ. How could it possibly be closer? The environment department, Defra, is a wholly owned subsidiary of the farming industry. The only members of this new board are government ministers and corporate representatives and lobbyists. Among its objectives is a âpoultry sector growth planâ, to address the issue of âplanning barriersâ.
This chickening out is just one of many examples of how, by working for special interests, the environment department has harmed the ecosystems and the people it is supposed to protect. Another is the governmentâs âdelivery planâ to restore nature, released by Reynolds just before she left office. Itâs not a plan, and it wonât deliver: just a catalogue of vague hopes and blandishments. It could be summarised as âdo nothing, for fear of offending landownersâ. Far from meeting its promise to protect and restore 30% of the land in England by 2030, Reynoldsâs department has presided over continued decline. Thatâs her legacy: less nature, less resilience, less security.
Much worse is planned: Starmerâs government proposed a âregulating for growth billâ, whose text we havenât yet seen, but which appears to threaten even greater assaults on nature protection. It may contain one of his governmentâs most alarming proposals: creating a system that could be described as pop-up freeports, in which companies all over the country would be able to operate in temporary âsandboxesâ, where the usual rules donât apply. We should see this as a key test of Burnhamâs promise to end neoliberalism: will he drop this nonsense?
Iâll keep asking the question, regardless of who occupies this office: do you know the name of the environment secretary? The answer is likely to depend on one factor: whether they are ready to break the grip of corporate power, and defend us and the rest of the living world. Whether, in other words, they want to do their job.
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